December 2, 2016 TFRyan

Project Update: K24 AE86 Part 1

Over the past few months we have been accumulating parts and knowledge to tackle our next full fledged build: a K24 out of an Acura TSX going into an AE86  Corolla. It had been done before, however it wasn’t documented extensively and many questions were still had on the whole swap. Through these blog posts, we will be documenting the whole process and learning as we go along how to successfully complete this swap!

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A majority of the time on the build so far has been spent on either research or waiting for parts to arrive.

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When the engine arrived, we stripped it of all of the useless emissions junk, factory wiring harness and the factory intake manifold.ral_0284

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Since the build had been planned we had a JSP Performance header specifically for a K24/AE86 on hand, ready to be sent off for ceramic coating.

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Our long block on the engine stand waiting for some new hardware and gaskets, and for the the valve cover to be removed for powder coating.

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For this build, the owner opted for the super cool Crystal Body Yokohama Trueno kit.

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Perfect aero for the car, one of the few full kits in the country!

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#functional

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Freshly ceramic coated JSP performance headers

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So fresh and clean!

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Some stopping power arrived for the AE86 from Techno Toy Tuning with their Big Daddy front Wilwood brake kit.

This AE86 is getting the complete custom gauge treatment from AutoMeter  with their SpekPro smoked lens tachometer, speedometer, water temp gauge, oil temp gauge, oil pressure gauge, and fuel gauge! We will be building a custom gauge cluster set up for the car as well to show off the NASCAR approved AutoMeter gauges.

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Cusco motor mounts.

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A stage 3 clutch from Competition Clutch should handle the naturally aspirated K24 power no problem.

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A Grex oil block adapter will allow for an aftermarket oil cooler to be ran with the engine; keeping the oil cool while operating on track days is vital.

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Skunk2 Ultra Street Manifold for K series

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Skunk2 70MM Honda Throttle Body

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We have the K swap idler pulley and belt setup from KMiata, which deletes A/C, power steering, and the OEM K series tensioner and idler to create the necessary clearance needed for the swap.

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7 rib belt, also a part of the idler pulley setup.

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The Skunk2 Ultra Street Manifold’s design (as well as the other designs for the K24 RWD conversion) do not have an integrated coolant passage, so the coolant bypass hole is left open when used together. This TracTuff RBC/RBB Water Bypass Adapter covers that passage and allows the coolant to be routed elsewhere.

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This K-Miata K24 upper coolant neck allows the upper coolant neck, now blocked off by the firewall, to have a line ran to it to redirect the coolant. A must for a RWD K24 set up!

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Fitting!

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KMiata wiring conversion harness for use with Hondata KPro and the factory wiring harness.

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We lowered the engine/trans into the shell to see what clearance issues we would have before dropping it in for the final time.

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The oil pan and the crossmember didn’t quite clear each other, and they would each require modification to ensure the engine sit right in the bay.

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Trimming off a bit of fat from the crossmember…

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Check out how much was removed from the crossmember! Don’t worry, it’s just as strong if not stronger than before.

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Oil pan on a diet.

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Another angle to show the work done to ensure the pan would clear the crossmember.

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A look from the inside, should clear just fine!

 

Next week we will be making major progress on the build, and hopefully mounting up there aero as well!

Check back on the TF Blog next week for updates 🙂

Thanks for following!

 

 

 

 

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